Friday 17 August 2012

July 2012 Lovely Lake Malawi and Mulanje Mountain


Hello there

July 2011 was a very chilly foggy cold (in Malawian terms) month, and Blantyre was built on the high plateau to be cool in the hot season, and therefore very chilly in the winter. So this year we decided to escape as much as possible to warmer parts of the country.

The first July weekend we went to the lake, ostensibly for a party to say goodbye to our paediatrician friends Surita and Andy. We rented a newly renovated cottage belonging to our friends and landlords Jane and Mac Mallewa on the lake shore and set off with Roshina, Jen and two psychiatric colleages of Jen’s who were teaching here. On Friday afternoon as we arrived, Andy Murray was playing Jo Wilfred Tsonga in the men’s semi’s at Wimbledon. Jen amazingly managed to tune her i-pad into radio Wimbledon, so we drank G&Ts by the beach listening to the match. In true Malawian style, the coverage was very sporadic, and cut out at all the vital moments. Towards the end of the match the power went out, so we sat by candlelight, cheering Andy on, missing all the vital shots, and I think Joshi thought we were quite mad. He joined in all the cheering thinking it was all hilarious, and practiced pointing at the candle saying ‘light!’.
tennis and scrabble by candlelight
Jacaranda at sunset

The next day we spent in typical lake shore fashion – doing nothing except lying around reading chatting and dozing. Joshi finally managed to let go of Gavin’s hand and took his first steps, which were a sprint towards the lake, so pleased with himself for finally managing to walk/run and spent the rest of the weekend with one of us chasing after him, and cheering him on. The party on the Saturday night was lovely – set on a beachside bar with the full moon reflecting in the lake, with great music and lots of silly dancing in the sand. On Sunday we all rushed back to BT to make sure we saw Andy in the final at Jen’s house, as she has DSTV(South African Sky), however Joshi hated it, crying everytime the crowd cheered, so Gav and I negotiated rapidly, and watched two games each while swapping running around the garden with him.
and he's off................
and is very pleased with himself afterwards
beach party Malawi style with Sarita, Aisleen and Andy

Roshina Gav and Joshi watch the Fed beat Andy in the Wimbledon final
The second weekend in July was the porter’s race, which is a massive race consisting of all the Mulanje mountain porters, plus some crazy mazungu runners running up and down Mt Mulanje over about 26 km – imagine a vertical marathon where you ascend about 2000m and then come down again, starting at 5am. Joshi and I joined the posse of people watching everyone come down at the end, and we were so proud of all our friends who managed this amazing feat in a variety of 3-5 hours. We all went for pizza afterwards – bizarrely at the bottom of the beautiful mountain is a pizza restaurant with a wood-fired oven, which gets all its business from hungry hikers. The after-party that night at Karen’s was amazingly lively with runners drinking and dancing until 2am. Yours truly crashed at midnight, outstripped by all the runners who don’t have toddlers to wake them up……
Emma and Joshi set off to watch the end of the race
Nick crosss the river on his way to the finish line

Rob and Emile find the best way to cool off after the race

The following weekend was my birthday weekend, and we headed back off to Mac and Jane’s cottage again, this time with Helena and Nick (very sadly our last weekend in Malawi together with them), and our mutual friends Nic and Dean with their kids Sophie and Samuel. More lakeshore relaxation ensued with Pimms at lunchtime by the pool, and a lazy trip to Club Mak, which is a fancy hotel up the road. After a failed birthday trip to the spa in true Malawian style, we hung out by the pool with Joshi and joined the others for a round of golf on the club Mak course, surrounded by baobabs and the beautiful sunset. We ate fabulously with Mozambiquan lobster braai one night and roast filet the next, cooked on charcoal under the stars by the lake by Lloyd the fabulous housekeeper, such gorgeous surrounds with good friends – I could not think of a better way to turn 35, thanks guys.
Joshi enjoys the golden sand at Lake Malawi

Josh and Gav enjoy the Club Mak pool

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Baobabs at sunset

Golfing stars Dean Nic Sophie Samuel Helena and Nick
Pimms at lunchtime at the poolside bar - its a hard life

Joshi tries out Sophie's scooter, and loves it

I am also getting into home food delivery - Malawi style. So far we have had home made bagels and cinnamon rolls, freshly roasted coffee and free range eggs delivered regularly to the door, as well as passers by selling strawberries, fish, pots, cloth and pretty much anything. Luka who makes the bagels has bought a Royal Mail bike - Blantyre is awash with these after a delivery from the UK, and they make me smile everytime we see one in the street.

Luka delivers hot cinnamon rolls on his Royal Mail bike


This month in Malawi not much has happened apart from the ongoing downstream economic ripples from the devaluation – the waterboard went on strike with no notice, cutting water to the whole city including the hospital, followed by the postal service. Power, water and fuel is set to double in cost this coming month and everywhere it is the average Malawian who has to meet this cost. After her first dramatic 100 days in office, Joyce hasn’t done much more, or said where she is going to take the country over the next 12 months. Malawians desperately need a strong leader who can move things forward, let’s hope Joyce can live up to her promise. 

Work continues as per usual for both of us, and now he can walk, Joshi is rushing about everywhere and enjoying hanging out with his baby friends. As it is the school holidays this and next month, most of his friends are away, they all come back mid-August so we are all looking forward to regular Wednesday and Monday playgroups starting up again. Joshi’s vocabulary now stands at about 25 words, and he is growing into a strong, happy confident little person, it is a real delight to see.


We are all excited about our trip back to the UK in September and hope to see as many of our family friends, and their new arrivals, as possible, along with eating as much cheese/sushi/Chinese/tyaabs as we can manage!

Lots of love

Emma Gavin and Joshi J